Mad Dash to Florida

Kawi stalking birds from the trailer

Kawi stalking birds from the trailer

We left Missouri with the intention of driving for two days and stopping in Fall Creek Falls State Park on the Cumberland Plateau in Tennessee. It has been voted one of the best state parks in the southeast. It is also the largest state park in the area with more than 20,000 acres, 3 waterfalls and 30 miles of trails. Sounds great, right? We pulled in on a Sunday afternoon, and immediately were worried about hitting the trailer on the large trees all along the campground road. The website said they could take trailers up to 45 feet, but it didn’t mention how tight the roads were getting to the campsites. Due to the leaves changing, the campground was packed with people. There were sites available, but we would have been sitting in a dark forest, with neighbors 5 feet from us, during a cold spell. The cell phone service was iffy. Since Dan is still very busy working right now, it didn’t seem like a good idea to stay. We seem to have followed a cold front all the way across the country. Missouri and Tennesse were both experiencing record lows. This was not what we had in mind when we left Colorado. We decided to keep driving. Our first priority was to make some lunch, we get cranky and stressed when we go too long without eating and learned early on to just pull over when that happens. The cat was stressing us out also. She still wasn’t happy in the truck (much whining), plus all the trees in the campground made us tense. This is our house we are pulling behind us, after all. We needed to stop and mentally reset.

The first sunny spot we found was a school parking lot. It was Sunday, so we pulled over and made lunch and tried to figure out where to go next. Dan asked how far Jacksonville was and then pulled out the map to take a look. I knew he was thinking of Huguenot Memorial Park. We spent two weeks there last year camped next to the Atlantic Ocean and the St Johns River. It sounded great, but it was over 400 miles away and we had just driven 700 miles in two days from Kansas City. We decided to just keep going and look for a sunny spot. Sunny spots are hard to find in the south. All the campgrounds are set up for summer use. In the summer you really need the trees to deal with the heat, it’s the opposite in the winter, you really want the warmth of the sun, especially during the cold spells. Since we were experiencing a cold spell, we hadn’t seen the sun or temps above 40 since before we left Colorado. It was starting to get to us. We both like to be outside a lot. If it’s too cold, we tend to hibernate in the trailer. That’s why Jacksonville was whispering in our ear. We were remembering biking and kayaking in shorts last December. We kept driving and about two hours later, the cat relaxed and started dozing. That was the deciding vote for heading straight on through to Florida. We covered several hundred miles while the cat was mellow. We overnighted in a Walmart parking lot and continued on the next morning to Jacksonville.

Camping on the St Johns River, FL

Camping on the St Johns River, FL

We are now camped next to the St Johns River. It was 80 degrees yesterday. We are both relaxed. The cat is happy. There are a lot of birds for her to watch and she has sun patches to snooze in. I have already gone for a long bike ride and been swimming in the river. We don’t have to move for two weeks.

The moral of this story for us is, stick with what works. We knew that trying to get to Florida in 3 weeks with only short stays wasn’t our style. We did it anyway, and stressed ourselves out. We have learned that if what we are doing isn’t working, to try something different. That’s why we changed plans, skipped Tennessee and headed to Florida. We have reservations in the keys for November and December for five weeks. That was the whole reason we were trying to hurry to Florida. It is almost impossible to get reservations in the keys, we’ve had these since January and didn’t want to give them up. Dan was so busy at work that we couldn’t leave any earlier. We also knew that there are a lot of trees in the south, and that doesn’t work if it’s cold. We should have just planned to drive straight to Florida from the start. Once we got here, we relaxed. We are a days drive from the keys, and we will move in two weeks instead of every week. Two weeks is our usual length of stay somewhere.

We have already decided that next year, we will not make any reservations in the fall. That way, we can leave Boulder when it is convenient and slowly head somewhere at our own pace. Dan is always busy with work at this time of year, and we aren’t fulltiming to create stress. The beauty of this lifestyle is we can change and adapt to our moods and circumstances. We aren’t used to feeling stress, and when we do, we try to figure out how to remove it. It isn’t something we have to just put up with. We are in control of our own happiness. Everyone is, but it’s a little easier to remember when you are wandering around the country in your RV.

Time to head south

Dan overlooking the Missouri River in Weston Bend State Park, MO

Dan overlooking the Missouri River in Weston Bend State Park, MO

Hitching up the trailer in 20 degree weather isn’t fun, but it confirmed that it was time to head south for the winter. We left on October 10th and need to be in the Florida Keys by November 2nd. For most people, 3 weeks to get to Florida wouldn’t be a problem. For us, it means several long driving days with too short of stops in between. It also means some hard choices on where to stop. There are way too many great places between Colorado and Florida and not enough time. Yes, we have a very rough life. We were asked often by friends in Boulder if we were going to keep travelling. The answer is yes. If too little time is our biggest problem, we obviously need more time on the road.

This was the cat’s first time making a long move with us. She isn’t a big fan of the truck yet. I jokingly said I hoped she would stop yowling by the time we got to Kansas. Then it became Missouri and it wasn’t a joke anymore. The first day was the worst, she was afraid and then just mad. When we stopped, she was very happy to get back in her trailer. She regards the trailer as her home and calmed down right away. The second day she did much better. She still didn’t like it, but she wasn’t scared anymore. Still a little pissed though. 650 miles and she meowed through the first 550. By the end of the second day, she seemed resigned to it. Once we were stopped, she enjoyed the new views from the trailer. She wants the window shades opened every morning so she can chatter at the birds and squirrels. I think she will be ok with the truck with a few more days of travel.
We are camped in Weston Bend State Park, just outside Kansas City, MO. The weather is a little colder than we would like, but we are still able to get out for walks and birding. The Missouri river runs next to the park and there are many migrating birds coming through. They too are heading south for the winter. The trees are just starting to turn here and the maples are beautiful. Dan is still working a lot right now, but he is taking tomorrow off and we are going to the National Frontier Trails Museum in Independence, MO. This is the jumping off place for the Oregon, California, and Santa Fe Trails. We have travelled parts of each of these so it will be fun to learn more about them. Fort Leavenworth is just across the river from us, so we are hoping to fit in a tour before we leave. Our plan is to stay here 6 nights and then do another two days of driving to get somewhere in Tennessee.

Diving in Curacao, Netherland Antilles

When we first decided to go to the Caribbean, we were only planning on spending two weeks in Bonaire. After crunching all the numbers, we realized by flying through Curacao and taking advantage of a promotion called “Curacao Now”, we could add another week to our trip for around a hundred dollars. Yes, I said one hundred dollars for a week on a tropical island. It turns out that Bonaire is more popular with North American tourists than Curacao, so the tourism board decided to lure some divers over with free hotel days, car rental days and a $400 airfare credit. This promotion combined with the fact that airlines tickets from Denver to Curacao were over $500 cheaper than Denver to Bonaire made it a no brainer to turn our 2 week vacation into a 3 week vacation. Are we ever glad we did.

Playa Lagun in Curacao. This is how easy shore diving was, just walk on in.

Playa Lagun in Curacao. This is how easy shore diving was, just walk on in.

We originally thought we would just snorkel on Curacao and save the diving for Bonaire. However, that plan went out the window the second day there when we saw Playa Lagun and it’s beautiful dive site. The combination of the blue Caribbean Sea and the lure of cheap and easy shore dives hooked us. Discover Diving offers full equipment rentals inlcuding one tank of air for $20/day. Each additional tank is $6. We couldn’t resist and each did five dives on Curacao. We were absolutely blown away by how good the coral was and the abundance of the fish life. The visibility wasn’t terrific, maybe 40-50 feet, but that is unusually low. (It steadily improved throughout the trip and was well over 100 feet by Bonaire) Shore Diving was a new experience. All of our previous diving has been from boats with a dive master. I am afraid that shore diving has spoiled us. We loved being able to dive at our own pace and go whatever direction we wanted. After overcoming our initial concerns about navigation, we couldn’t get enough. Dan had 31 dives when we got to Curacao and 62 when we left Bonaire. The best part about shore diving was being able to stay down longer. When you are with a group, you always have to come up based on the air of the least efficient diver. Dan and I are comfortable divers and spent at least 60 minutes under on each dive. I think not having a dive master made us better divers. We are both more comfortable with using a compass, communicating under water, and the dive tables than we were previously.

Curacao is a former Dutch colony that is working towards independence. It is located about 40 miles of the Venezulan Coast and it’s main industry is refining oil for Venezula It has a high standard of living for a Caribbean country and an interesting mix of people. The offical languages are Dutch and Papiamentu (a creole language derived from Spanish, African languages, and Caribbean Indian languages). Most people we encountered spoke four languages. Dutch, Papiamentu, Spanish, and English. While Willemstad is the capital and only large city, there are numerous small villages scattered around the island. We stayed at Westpunt, about 45 miles from the capital on the “quiet” end of the island. We found it ironic that when locals heard where we were staying, they would remark on how far away it was from Willemstad. Coming from a country where most people commute 45 minutes to work, we didn’t find it too far. Besides, all the quiet beaches and dive sites were at our end of the island.

Dan took this 20 feet in front of our porch. This was our view. The gate leads to the house reef

Dan took this 20 feet in front of our porch. This was our view. The gate leads to the house reef

We stayed at Marazul Dive Resort. I picked it due to it’s reasonable rates and proximity to the ocean. We received a free nights stay under the Curacao Now deal. September is the low season in Curacao and we were pleasantly surprised to have the resort almost to ourselves. There were a few other people in residence, but mostly empty condos. Due to a problem with our freezer, I was able to convince the manager to upgrade us from an ocean view studio to a 1 bedroom ocean front condo. I think this might have been the nicest place we have ever stayed. The view was incredible and the steps to the ocean were 20 feet from our front porch. The ocean was around 82 degrees. Warm enough that even Dan didn’t get cold. September is the hottest month of the year in Curacao with temps in the 80’s and 90’s during the day and low 80’s at night. The constant breeze helps keep things comfortable, but A/C is a must for sleeping. Curacao is not in the hurricane belt which makes it possible to visit in low season.
This felt like our own private dive site, just steps from our front porch

This felt like our own private dive site, just steps from our front porch

One of the highlights was seeing two large Manta Rays playing in front of the resort. You can see a clip of them here They passed within 50 feet us of the platform we were on. We also saw large pods of spinning dolphins from our front porch. We did two dives on the unnamed house Reef and thought it was world class coral. Being surrounded by schools of fish and swimming by 30 foot mushroom coral towers made us remember how much we love diving.

We were constantly surprised by how friendly and helpful the people were. Since the economy doesn’t depend on tourism, everything is in Dutch. People went out of their way to help us navigate the city, tell us their favorite places, discuss the best dive locations, talk to us about birds, etc. It was wonderful and very surprising. The other surprising thing is that most of the other tourists were from Europe. In general, Europeans go to Curacao and Americans go to Bonaire. We met a wonderful French couple that owned a condo at Marazul and they spent a lot of time discussing their favorite dive sites with us.

We have been to countries where tourists are only seen as dollar signs, and it was really refreshing to not feel that. It was also wonderful to get some exposure to a different culture. Would we go back to Curacao? Absolutely. I’ll be keeping a eye out for next year’s Curacao promotion. I’ll post about two weeks in Bonaire soon.

Dive Trip to Bonaire & Curacao

I finally managed to update our site to a new format. I am hoping this new blog format will be easier to maintain and I will update more frequently. Now for the updates….

We have been in Boulder all summer. We never got to Yellowstone or anywhere else, due to an unexepected foot injury. For my birthday we went for a mountain bike ride. I wanted to do the Centennial Cone Trail in Golden, CO. This trail is a 12 mile loop with some good single track. It is a great aerobic workout, but not very technical. About 7 miles in, on a fairly easy downhill section, I took a header over the handlebars.  I started to get up to redo the section, when I realized my foot hurt. I tried to stand on it, but it was very painful. Since we were 5 miles from the end of the trail, I had to ride out. By the last half-mile, I was in tears. I wasn’t sure what the problem was, but I couldn’t walk at all. Since we have a very high deductible insurance, I didn’t want to go to the ER. I called the orthopedic doctor that we have used before and they got me in the next day. I still couldn’t walk. The doc took x-rays and said nothing was broken, but that I had a Lis-Franc Sprain that would take 4-6 weeks to heal.  We were very surprised that it would take that long, but he said that wasn’t unusual for this sprain. I got a walking boot with instructions to be non-weight bearing and keep the foot up to prevent swelling. I ended up on the couch in the RV for a month, crutches the entire time. I couldn’t put weight on until the 5th week and it wasn’t until the 6th week that I got to transition to hiking boots. Now, two months later, I still can’t walk barefoot and I am still only wearing hiking boots. This was the most painful injury I have ever had.

The good news is that it has healed enough for us to go diving. Ever since we were in the Keys in Feb, we have been wanting to dive. We went gambling when we got back to CO and won about $1800. We decided instead of gambling again, we would put it towards a dive trip. We are headed to the Caribbean in the morning. We are spending a week in Curacao and two weeks in Bonaire. Even full-timers need a vacation. Yes, we realize how spoiled we are, but this will only be the second time since we left that Dan isn’t available for work at all. We have moved over to a friend’s farm and are camping in his field. His daughter is going to watch the cat and the trailer will be in a safe place.

I’ll post again in about 3 weeks with all the details and photos from our trip.

Back in Colorado

We are currently staying in a mobile home park in Lafayette, CO. We have stayed here several times and find it to be easier than campgrounds when we need to be near Boulder longer than a few weeks. So far, we have been here since mid-April and probably won’t leave until mid-July. 3 months in one spot is a bit long for us, but it was necessary for Dan to spend some time here for work. He works out of the trailer most of the time, but his company’s office is in Boulder and he likes to put in some face time occasionally. He has been busy lining up new projects and refilling our coffers. We can tell that it is time to go because we are both suddenly noticing the neighborhood noise. For example, our neighbor just started his lawnmower. I think we are both ready for some boondocking or a nice, quiet campground.
 
Kawi, the "Queen of the Trailer"

Kawi, the "Queen of the Trailer"

Our biggest news is an addition to the family. We finally succumbed to the urge to get a cat. We found a very friendly tabby cat at the local humane society and brought her home with us. “Kawi” is now a fulltiming cat. She hasn’t actually travelled with us yet, but we have been taking her on short trips in the truck to get her acclimated. This cat is responsible for completely rearranging our schedule. We have never been morning people, but somehow ended up with a morning cat. She likes to wake us up early to play. She started at dawn, but now we have her sleeping in until 6:30 or 7:00. She loves to chase things, and has provided us with hours of entertainment. She is a very talkative cat and loves to sleep all over Dan’s work drawings. We are really enjoying her and hope she likes to travel as much as we do.
Even though Dan has been working a lot, we have managed to get out and enjoy the area. Since we knew we were going to be here a couple of months, we thought we should treat it as just another stop and explore our own backyard for a change. Even though we lived here for 10 years, there is still a lot we haven’t done. Late Spring/Early Summer has always been our favorite time of year in Colorado. It was a rainy spring and the hills are green and the wildflowers are prolific.
Dan next to the Colorado River in Glenwood Canyon, CO

Dan next to the Colorado River in Glenwood Canyon, CO

  We spent a weekend in Glenwood Springs and rode the Glenwood Bike Path for the second time. We also hiked the Hanging Lake Trail. The bike path is as beautiful as ever, the river is roaring from the spring run-off.The Hanging Lake trail was the real highlight this trip. Due to all the snow melt, the steep trail up a creek was filled with waterfalls. Getting to the top, you are rewarded with another triple waterfall and then the actual hanging lake. So named for the fact that the lake seems to hang off the cliff and the edges are just travertine terraces. After hiking one day and biking 27 miles the next, we still didn’t get to the famous Glenwood Hot Springs. This is not the first time we have planned to go to the hot springs, and then were too tired after playing all day. You know what that means, we’ll just have to go back.
A short but steep hike brings you to Hanging Lake

A short but steep hike brings you to Hanging Lake

Dan and I celebrated our 9th wedding anniversary with a mountain bike ride. We had never ridden this trail, even though it is only ten miles from us. The wildflowers were spectacular and you can see why we loved living at the base of the Rockies. “The Flatirons” loom over Boulder and contribute to the fabulous scenery. We are enjoying being back in Colorado, yet already starting to plan for our next destination. Could be Yellowstone…..
Views of the Flatirons from the High Plains Trail in Boulder, CO

Views of the Flatirons from the High Plains Trail in Boulder,

Manatees and Mermaids in Florida

In late January, Dan’s Aunt Joan came for a visit. We left Faver-Dykes State Park on the Atlantic side of Florida and headed for Homosassa Springs on the Gulf Coast of Florida to meet her. Around here, the Gulf Coast is known as the West Coast. To us, California is the West Coast. It’s all relative.

Jenn, Dan, & Joan enjoying a boat ride on the Homossassa River, FL

Jenn, Dan, & Joan enjoying a boat ride on the Homossassa River, FL

Homosassa Springs is known as a winter home for Manatees. We really wanted to see them, and thought about paying to take a boat trip, but ended up deciding not to. Glad we didn’t, because it’s not hard at all to see Manatees. They congregate in the natural springs in the area. There are several bridges and states parks where you can see them for free. The manatees like the 72 degree water and loll around in many of the natural springs in the area.. You’d think manatees would be cute, but they really aren’t. They look like overweight seals, except goofier, and not as smart. Anyway, we all enjoyed seeing the silly creatures.

We did take a boat trip out the Homossassa River into the Gulf of Mexico. It was really fun and very beautiful. It was supposed to be a 2.5 hour trip, but I guess the captain liked us. He kept us out for 4-5 hours. It might have helped that it was Joan’s birthday. Just the three of us and the captain, it was a day I’ll remember for a long time.

Mermaids have been performing at Weeki Wachee Springs since 1947

Mermaids have been performing at Weeki Wachee Springs since 1947

We spent a day at an Old Florida tourist spot, the Weeki Wachee Springs State Park. They put on a mermaid show in the spring. They perform skits with only air hoses to breath from, and fish and turtles all around them.

Just like last time Joan visited, we had a great time. We are looking forward to more visits her in the future. Anyone else want to come sleep on our couch? We’re a cheap vacation.

When Joan left, we headed back to Faver-Dykes State Park. I had agreed to volunteer as a camp host for 3 weeks in exchange for a free campsite. We were a little leery of camphosting, wondering if people would be knocking on our door at all hours, etc. It turned out to be very enjoyable. Raking sites, cleaning bathrooms, taking out trash, and selling firewood were our main duties. We worked about 15 hours a week between the two of us and met a lot of really nice people. Everyone does talk to the camphosts, but mainly when you are out in the campground going about your duties. We would definitely consider doing it again. They have already asked us back for next year. We tried to explain that we don’t usually plan that far in advance, but you never know.

 

Dan scoping for critters in the Everglades

Dan scoping for critters in the Everglades

While camphosting, we took two days to go to Cape Canaveral and NASA. We booked a hotel room instead of taking the trailer down. We missed our comfy trailer with all of it’s conveniences. We did enjoy spending two days at NASA and learned a lot. Dan enjoyed the big Saturn 5 Rocket on display while I really enjoyed learning the history of the space program. I have a new appreciation for how difficult each and every mission is.  

Even with travelling to Cape Canaveral, camphosting turned out to be great for the budget. Not only did we save on campsite fees, we saved on gas, food, and entertainment. February was the cheapest month we have ever had on the road. Rather reassuring in these tough economic times. We can do this cheaper if we need to.

We left Faver-Dykes around the 3rd week of February and headed for the Everglades. I didn’t know what to expect, but was prepared for a large swamp, heat, and humidity. Dan has always wanted to go there and was excited to see it. It was more like a big prairie with isolated islands of trees and swamp. The expansive views were reminiscent of the west and a real treat after all the trees of the east. I felt like my soul could breathe again. I like the east and it has been fascinating to see how different it is, but I don’t think I could live here. There is something about the western landscapes that speak to me. Maybe it is just what I am used to.
One of many gators in the Everglades

One of many gators in the Everglades

I could get used to February temperature in the 70’s with low humidity. Apparently, the bugs are so bad in the summer, that you can camp for free in the Everglades. The bugs would probably carry Dan away with them. Florida has been one bugbite after another for him. He isn’t complaining, but they really seem to like him. They weren’t bad while we were there, but we did use plenty of bug spray on our hikes. We only spent four days as we had reservations in the keys, but, I think we will be back.  We could easily spend several weeks hiking, birding, and canoeing the area.

We next headed to the Keys. Again, I wasn’t sure what to expect.  We were paying a lot of money for a spot for a week. In fact, we spent an entire month’s worth of our campsite budget on that one week. Painful for the accountant in me.  We were going to treat it as a scoping out trip, since we already have reservations for November in the state parks. Reservations can be made 11 months in advance and you won’t get them if you don’t try on the first day they are available. That is how popular the state parks are in the keys. They also cost about a third of the price of private parks, and the sites are much nicer!

Turns out, the extra money was well spent. We had a great time in the Keys. The water was warm enough to swim and snorkel. It was even warm enough that we could have gone diving. We didn’t dive this time, but probably will when we return. The birds are great and there are even some bike trails. It was busy, but not near as bad as we expected. We are glad we made the reservations for later in the year. We can always cancel them if we need to, but I suspect we will find ourselves camping in the Keys again come November. There is a lot more to do and one of our reservations is for a beach front campsite.

Dan & Jenn biking along the Keys.

Dan & Jenn biking along the Keys.

After the keys, we spent a week at Kissimee Prairie Preserve State Park. It is a really quiet park about 30 miles north of Lake Okeechobee. Again, it reminded us of the west. Beautiful prairies, wide open spaces, and lots of birds. The main difference between Florida prairie and Western prairies are the alligators in every wet spot. It’s not a smart idea to go tromping off trail in Florida. We spent several days birding and biking the area. Dan took the opportunity to get caught up with work as he had taken time off while we were in the Keys. People assume we are always on vacation, but that isn’t the reality. Dan works on a regular basis. He only works part-time, and never a regular schedule, but he does some work most weeks. Occasionally, we go somewhere quiet, like Kissimee, where he can work a lot of hours at once. The fact that he can step outside to go for a trail run whenever he wants is a major advantage in our lifestyle.

Our next goal is to work our way back to Colorado. We need to be back in mid-April for work commitments.

70 degrees in Florida

We finally left Georgia just before Christmas and have been enjoying Florida ever since. I have to admit, I wasn’t sure we would like Florida. I have heard a lot of conflicting reports. Some people say it’s too expensive, crowded, filled with old folks, and others say it’s the best place to spend the winter. So far, we are in the second camp. We have been able to find reasonably priced places to stay, the older folks are tolerable, and the weather can’t be beat. We have been outside and active much more than last winter. The birding is terrific and there are a lot of state parks, historic sites, wildlife refuges, etc. to explore.
 
The view from our trailer at Huegonot Memorial Park, FL. That is our kayak drying in the sun, and a large container ship coming down the St John River

The view from our trailer at Huegonot Memorial Park, FL. That is our kayak drying in the sun, and a large container ship coming down the St John River

Our first stop in Florida was one of the best campsites we have ever had. After 20 months on the road, that is saying a lot. Huegonot Memorial Park, outside Jacksonville, FL is amazing. For $15/night, we had a site that was 50 feet from the St John’s River and 1/4 mile from the Atlantic Ocean. Pelicans and terns skimmed up and down the river, dolphins passed by our trailer, large container ships escorted by tugboats went by, all viewable from the comfort of our trailer. We kayaked in the bay and up the river right to our site. A short walk down the river led to the ocean and miles of beaches. The weather was in the 70’s and it felt like summer.  I could go on and on….we kept looking at each and saying “What a find!” We spent Christmas Day doing a 30 mile bike ride along the coast. Two weeks went way too fast.
We next headed to Faver-Dykes State Park, just south of St Augustine, FL. Faver-Dykes is nice and fairly quiet with kayaking and birding easily available. I made friends with the ranger and worked a few hours to earn us a free site for several nights. A little help for the budget. We rode our bikes into St Augustine and checked out the history. St Augustine is a strange town. Lots of history, unfortunately, it’s not all authentic. Too many buildings have been reconstructed with no thought to differentiating the old from the new. The tourists seem to like it, but my historic preservationist engineer/husband didn’t. I agreed, when you can’t tell what it real and what is fake, it all seems fake.
 
Jenn biking along the Florida Coast on Christmas Day, 2008

Jenn biking along the Florida Coast on Christmas Day, 2008

We heard from Dan’s aunt Joan recently. She is coming to Florida and we are going to meet up with her again. We last saw her when she joined us in Yellowstone in August. We’ll head over to Homosassa Springs on the west coast of Florida and check out the Manatees that winter in the area. After that, we’ll head back to Faver-Dykes as I’ve agreed to work as the temporary camp host for a couple weeks. Ten hours a week earns us a free site. This should help balance out the week in the keys we have planned for late February.

Savannah or "Slow-vannah", as the locals say

One of many restored homes in Savannah, GA

One of many restored homes in Savannah, GA

We spent three weeks in the Savannah area, staying at Skidaway Island State Park and Ft. McAllister State Park. Skidaway is conveniently located at the south end of the city with trails wandering along the intracoastal waterway. Ft McAllister is about 15 miles south (another big driving day for us) and is a quiet park located along tidal creeks with nice kayaking and birding. Deer are plentiful in both campgrounds and we saw raccoons at Ft McAllister. We accidentally treed one of them. I had no idea they could climb that fast.
   If you like history or architecture, Savannah (nice slide show here) is a great place to visit. The Historic District has over 2000 buildings on the National Historic Register. We spent an entire day doing a walking tour of most of the 24 squares and some of the buildings. You would have to spend years in order to see them all. Some of the buildings go back to the late 1700’s, with the majority from the 1800’s. Most of the homes were built by wealthy plantation owners, and you can still walk along the riverside cotton wharehouses that have been revonated into restaurants, shops, and condos. Container ships frequent the river these days.
   You can’t have cotton plantations without slaves, and there is some information about slavery, but not as much as we expected. We are planning on visiting a former rice plantation farther down the coast that was farmed before and after Emancipation.

Container Ships in the Savannah Port

Container Ships in the Savannah Port

The active segregration of Savannah stands out if you spend any time here. Neighborhoods seemed to be strictly divided along racial lines. The outlying islands are filled with gated communities, while the city itself is mixed, but separate. There were neighboorhoods of middle class white folks, and places we were stared at as we drove through. The class inequality was striking. Project housing on one street with mansions two streets over. The poverty in the south has been educational for both of us. Once again, we are reminded of how fortunate we have been in our own lives, and how the uncontrollable circumstances of your birth can dictate the life you lead.
Savannah is also a good place for the nature lover. We spent two afternoons at Tybee Island, enjoying the quiet beach. Winter is off-season on the Georgia coast, and tourism is down this year due to the economy. We also enjoyed a day at the Savannah National Wildlife Refuge (actually located in South Carolina). Great birds, and it was fun to spot alligators. We went kayaking twice. We were a little nervous about the tides. Georgia has very large tide changes, as much as eight feet. The rivers and creeks can go from full to impassable every six hours. Since our average kayak trip is about two hours, it wasn’t a problem. We just made sure we went at or near high tide and always went upstream.

Dan checking out the damage caused by Yankee Canyons in 1862 at Fort Pulaski, GA

Dan checking out the damage caused by Yankee Canyons in 1862 at Fort Pulaski, GA

Fort Pulaski was another highlight. The fort was built of brick prior to the civil war and still has damage sustained from a Yankee attack during the civil war. We have never been to any civil war sites, and had heard that civil war history is alive and well in the south. For a great book, read Confederates in the Attic, by Tony Horwitz. Down here, the war is referred to as the “War between the States” or the “War of Northern Agression.” Sherman’s March to the Sea is a well known route, and people can tell you which towns were burned or spared, and why. We continue to find friendly people who are happy to talk to us and tell us their favorite places to visit in Georgia. Our quick visit to Georgia before dropping into Florida, is going on 6+ weeks now. What can I say….we like to travel slow.

Colorado to Georgia

Kayaking on the Tenn-Tom Waterway in Mississippi. This was our first experience kayaking in a swamp. We loved it.

Kayaking on the Tenn-Tom Waterway in Mississippi. This was our first experience kayaking in a swamp. We loved it.

As of Nov 17th, we are camped in a state park in Savannah, GA. The last month has been crazy. We left Boulder, CO and drove through Kansas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Mississippi, Alabama and Georgia to reach the coast. I use the word “drove” instead of travelled on purpose. We didn’t travel like we usually do. We spent a few nights in Kansas, two in Oklahoma, one in Arkansas, four in Mississippi, and then about 10 days in Alabama visiting Dan’s dad. We were thinking we would head south to Mobile and then on to Florida, but changed our minds and headed for Savannah instead. On the way, we stopped at a wildlife management area in Middle Georgia for a night and liked it so much we spent two weeks. The freedom to change plans on a whim is one of my favorite things about this lifestyle.

   Driving across the country was very interesting. Oklahoma, Arkansas, and Mississippi all looked like they were having a tough time economically. Parts of Alabama looked similiar. Georgia seems to be in the best shape of the south, so far. Of course, we only drove through parts of each state, and couldn’t stay as long as we would like. We didn’t get the chance to talk to many locals, so our impressions are based on glimpses of small towns, houses along the highways, closed factories, etc. We could be entirely wrong, but there isn’t a lot of industry that we have seen. There are a lot of people living in what we would consider shacks that would probably be condemned in Colorado. The lack of zoning is amazing, there are just houses sprawled alongside highways, usually with five cars in the driveway. We keep wondering what everyone is doing home in the middle of the day.
    There are a lot of small highways running everywhere. We tried to avoid the big highways and were pleased to find

Views like these are one of the reasons we love kayaking. The leaves were turning, and it was just us and the animals

Views like these are one of the reasons we love kayaking. The leaves were turning, and it was just us and the animals

the “blue highways” in consistently excellent condition. Maybe that is what people do for a living, keep the roads paved. Walking down the highway seems to be common, and people really do sit on their front porches and wave at you. There is hardly a house in Georgia that doesn’t have rockers on the front porch. The people we have met have been very friendly, and happy to talk to us. We keep getting asked if we are “Northerners”, I assume due to lack of an accent. I have also noticed that people are polite, being called ma’am and sir are common.

   The emphasis on church is much heavier here than anywhere we have ever been. A cave tour in Alabama was a great example. In the middle of the tour, they do a laser show, but never mention that the show is based on God creating the world in 7 days. I was so surprised, that I couldn’t stop laughing. First, the whole idea of a laser show in a cave, and second, no one besides us thought the religious aspect was strange. Nowhere did it mention this in the brochure. This is just normal here.
   All that being said, we are really enjoying our time in the deep south.  People go out of their way to talk to us, and tell us about places to go. Taking the time to visit is just a way of life here. People do not seem to be in as big of a hurry as other areas we have been to.
Boondocking in a Wildlife Management Area in Middle Georgia. We were only going to stay a night, but ended up staying two weeks.

Boondocking in a Wildlife Management Area in Middle Georgia. We were only going to stay a night, but ended up staying two weeks.

Aren't Gas Prices Really Hurting You?

As of Oct 13th, we are on the road again, headed towards Alabama to visit Dan’s family. Alabama is a 1500 mile trip for

Camping all alone in a Kansas State Park

Camping all alone in a Kansas State Park

us. We will cover about 300 miles a day with some rest/work days built in. It should take us about ten days altogether. Right now we are camped in a Kansas State Park. There is one other trailer in the whole place. Our site is on a narrow peninsula with a lake surrounding us. After spending several weeks in the Boulder area, the space and silence is wonderful. The owls were hooting and the coyotes were howling last night. You just don’t get that in the city. It is raining today, but supposed to clear later. We are hoping to get out in the kayak tomorrow.

   We just spent several weeks in Boulder catching up with friends and work. Dan had a couple of site visits, and we attended a friend’s wedding. We kept getting asked the same questions. “How can you do this so young?” and  ”Aren’t the gas prices really hurting you?” The answer to the the first

Dan took this picture on a site visit to Glacier National Park in early October

Dan took this picture on a site visit to Glacier National Park in early October

will be covered in a future post (short answer; don’t have kids and live below your means!)  and the answer to the second is no. Yes, diesel prices are higher than we would like, but we are still under our budget for the year in that category. We can control how much we spend on diesel by travelling slower, staying longer, etc. The things that are hurting our budget are items like groceries, medical bills, and entertainment. Like everyone else, we are spending more on groceries than we were a year ago. About 25% more, and I don’t think our eating habits have changed.

Medical bills were higher than anticipated due to Jenn having to have an endoscopy earlier this year. Luckily, we were able to go to Monterrey, Mexico and have it done for a lot less than it would have cost in the states. In fact, including our travel and vacation costs in Mexico, we spent half of what we would have in the US for the exact same procedure. This doesn’t even consider the fact that the standard of care was fabulous and we actually have a doctor that we can talk to or e-mail anytime. What a difference from the states… this trip really highlighted some of the problems with health care in America. I could write a whole entry about this alone. In the end, the important thing is that the problem is fixed and I feel good. It’s hard to put a price tag on feeling good.

   Entertainment is the category where we have blown it the biggest, but I am not sure we would do anything different. We had to replace my laptop when it was stolen, and we have gone gambling a few times. Dan made up for some of our previous losses by hitting a royal last time, but we usually expect to lose and treat it as entertainment. Some of our purchases, like a new camera lens, an HD TV, and the kayak, will provide hours of free entertainment in the future. I expect our enertainment costs to come down next year, but we want to have a good time as long as we are out here. There is no point in denying ourselves just to save a few dollars. There are many areas it is really easy for us save. We don’t eat out a lot and we tend to like cheaper places to stay. Those cost saving measures don’t feel like we are denying ourselves anything and help balance out our extravagances.
   In the end, I tell people to think about how much their mortgage, property taxes, car payments etc. cost them and then realize that we don’t have those costs. Yes, some of our costs are similar, but a lot of them don’t exist for us. We spend about 50% of what we did when we had a house. That means we need to bring in a lot less money to sustain this lifestyle. As to how we got to this point, I’ll cover that some other time.